This is a list of books, articles and manuscripts about weaving and textile history, techniques, technology, and design, arranged alphabetically. These are sources I have found useful in the pursuit of my own practice, with a bias towards the historical and technical rather than the contemporary and theoretical. I have included download links for non-copyright items – many are available from the Internet Archive: https://archive.org/
Ashenhurst, Thomas R. (1881) An Album of Textile Designs Containing Upwards of 7,000 Patterns Suitable for Fabrics of Every Description, J. Broadbent & Co. Bradford / Huddersfield.
Illustrations of 7,200 weave patterns, mostly fancy twills, listed according to the number of ends in a repeat, from 3 to 16.
Ashenhurst, Thomas R. (1899) Design in Textile Fabrics. London.
Ashenhurst, Thomas R. (1879) A practical treatise on weaving and designing of textile fabrics : with chapters on the principles of construction of the loom, calculations and colour. Bradford.
Ashenhurst, Thomas R. (1902) A treatise on textile calculations and the structure of fabrics. Huddersfield.
Baines, Edward (1835) History of the Cotton Manufacture in Great Britain, London.
Much quoted early history of the British cotton industry. Contains beautiful engravings of machinery and industrial mills.
Baines, Patricia (1989) Linen: Hand Spinning and Weaving. London.
Baldwin, Amos A. (1878) A treatise on Designing and Weaving Plain & Fancy Woolen Cloths. New York.
Barlow, Alfred (1879) The History and Principles of Weaving By Hand and By Power. London.
Contains some good description and line drawing explaining the mechanisms and operations of hand weaving, such as the English loom, fly-shuttle etc.
Becker, John & Wagner, Don (2009) Pattern & Loom: A Practical Study in the Development of Weaving Techniques in China, Western Asia and Europe. Copenhagen.
Beckert, Sven (2014) Empire of Cotton. New York.
Beaumont, Roberts (1916) Standard Cloths, Structure and Manufacture (General, Military and Naval) London.
Bemiss, Elijah (1815) The Dyers Companion, New York
Bennett, Frank & Co., (1914) A Cotton Fabrics Glossary; Containing instructions for the Manufacture of Every Known Grade and Variety of Cotton Fabrics
Berthollet, Claude-Louis (1792) Elements of the Art of Dying
Bronson, J & R (1817) The domestic manufacturer’s assistant, and family directory, in the arts of weaving and dyeing. Utica, USA.
Butterworth, James (1801) A Guide to Universal Manufacture; or the Web Analyzed. Manchester.
Butterworth, James (1812) The fustian manufacturer and weaver’s draught book.
Butterworth, James (1805) The Weaver’s Pocket Companion; Or Weaving Spiritualized. London.
Butterworth, James (1825) The Manufacturer’s and Weaver’s Guide: Or the Web Unravelled.
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=sPKnA8nWUbUC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0 – v=onepage&q&f=false
Bythell, Duncan (1969) The Handloom Weavers: A Study in the English Cotton Industry during the Industrial Revolution. Cambridge.
Cyrus-Zetterstrom, Ulla & Blomquist, Alice (translator) (1984) Manual of Swedish Handweaving. Stockholm.
Dolan, Alice (2015) The Fabric of Life: Linen and Life Cycle in England 1678-1810 PhD Thesis, University of Hertfordhsire
Donat, Franz (1900) Bindungs-Lexikon für Schaftweberei
Contains beautiful coloured plates of textile designs
Donat, Franz (1908) Methodik der Bindungslehre, Dekomposition und Kalkulation für Schaftweberei : Bearbeitet für Textilschulen und zum Selbstunterricht.
(Methodology of binding theory, decomposition and calculation for shaft weaving: edited for textile schools and for self-teaching)
Comprehensive German guide to structure and technology, with beautiful coloured illustrations on patterns and machinery.
Donat, Franz (1907) Die färbige Gewebemusterung : ein Lehrgang, Gewebe durch 2-6 färbige Anordnung der Ketten- und Schussfäden zu figurieren
(The colored fabric patterning: a course in figuring fabric through 2-6 colored arrangement of the warp and weft threads)
Donat, Franz (1895) Large Book of Textile Designs.
Contains beautiful coloured plates of textile designs.
Duncan, John (1808) Practical and descriptive essays on the art of weaving.
Fannin, Allen A. (1979) Handloom Weaving Technology
Forbes Watson, J. (1867) The Textile Manufactures and the Costumes of the People of India. London.
Fox, T. W. (1894) The Mechanism of Weaving, London
Frickinger, Johann Michael (1740) Weber Bild Buch
Frickinger, Johann Michael (1783) Weber Bild Buch
Gilroy, Clinton G (1844) The art of weaving, by hand and by power, with an introductory account of its rise and progress in ancient and modern times. New York, Baldwin.
Introduction includes and exorbitant and fanciful history of weaving. Beautiful engravings, such as Jacquard mountings towards the back.
Guest, Richard (1823) Compendious History of the Cotton-Manufacture; with Disproval of the Claim of Sir Richard Arkwright to the Invention of Its Ingenious Machinery; Manchester.
History of developments in British cotton spinning and weaving. Includes engravings of English loom, warping mill, jennies, water frames etc. at back of book.
Hanton, W. A. (1954) Mechanics for Textile Students. Manchester
Hargrove, John (1792) The Weaver’s Draft Book and Clothiers Assistant; Baltimore.
Hellot, Jean; Macquer, Pierre Joseph; Le Pileur D’Apligny (1789) The Art of Dying Wool, Silk and Cotton, London
Holmes, James (1896) Cotton Cloth Designing, Burnley.
James Holmes was Lecturer in Weaving at Burnley, Nelson, Accrington and Nelson Technical Schools, Lancashire. “The object of this work is to explain the Principles of Designing for Simple woven patterns.” Contains colour plates in black, red, yellow and blue, describing patterns and structures of plain, twill, gauze, leno, double cloth, satins etc.
Holmes, James (1912) Manuscript Notes on Weaving. Burnley.
Handwritten text and hand drawn illustrations. Notes and exercises for weaving students. Includes cloth patterns and structures alongside diagrams of early twentieth century machinery.
Heylin, Henry Brougham (1908), The Cotton Weavers Handbook: A practical guide To the Construction and Costing of Cotton Fabrics, with Studies of Designs; London.
“By Henry Brougham Heylin of the Royal Technical Institute, Salford” With 358 illustrations “The main objects in writing this work have been—first, in the interests of Technical Education ; secondly, to place before the reader and student—by simple methods of description and in as compact a handbook as possible—the principles and conditions under which cotton goods are respectively constructed and produced.”
Includes line drawings illustrating of power loom mechanisms and weave structures. Good clear diagrams of weave structure and loom mountings.
Hooper, Luther (1920) Hand-Loom Weaving, Plain & Ornamental; from the Artistic Craft Series of Technical Handbooks, edited by W.R. Lethaby; Bath, Melbourne, New York.
https://archive.org/search.php?query=Hand-Loom Weaving, Plain %26 Ornamental
Inikori, Joseph (1989) Slavery and the Revolution in Cotton Textile Production in England. Social Science History,Volume 13, Issue 4, Winter 1989 , pp. 343 – 379.
Kirschbaum, Johann Michael (1771) Neues Weberbild: und Musterbuch… zur Beförderung der edlen Leinen- und Bildweberkunst
Lumscher, Nathaniel (1736) Neu hervorkommendes Weber Kunst und Bild Buch.
Lumscher, Nathaniel (1727) Des Neu-erfundenen Weber Kunst- und Bild-Buchs
Marks, R. & Robinson A. T. C. (1976) Principles of Weaving. Textile Institute, Manchester.
Marsden, Richard (1895) Cotton Weaving: Its Development Principles and Practice; London & Manchester.
From preface: “The present work is an exposition of the development, principles, and practice of the weaving division of the trade, as the former volume was of the spinning division.”
Murphy, John (1827) Treatise on the Art of Weaving, Illustrated by Engravings, with Calculations and Tables, for the Use of Manufacturers; Glasgow
Ch. 1: Loom Mountings: The first loom described is a coutermarche handloom, although not referred to as such, implying this was the commonly used loom. Lamms are called marches, long and short. Harnesses are called leafs, and are lifted by coupers in the top castle. Also includes descriptions of Jack and Stock and Pulley Mounting.
Ch. 2: Tweeling: good introduction to tweel patterns, satinets, damboard etc.
Some nice pattern plates in the back.
Neville, H. (1897) The students handbook of practical fabric structure., Technical School Blackburn,.
Oelsner, G. H. (1915) A Handbook of Weaves. New York.
Partridge, William (1834) A Practical Treatise on Dying Woollen Cotton and Silk. New York.
Peddie, Alexander (1817) The Linen Manufacturer, Weaver, and Warper’s Assistant, Glasgow.
Schonsperger, Johann (1529) Ein New Getruckt Model Büchli Auff Außnehen Unnd Borttenwircken Ynn Der Laden Unnd Lanngenn Gestell. Ganntz Gerecht Nach Abteilung Der Feden Tzal.
Styles, John. (2016) Fashion, Textiles and the Origin of Industrial Revolution, Research Paper
Taylor, John T. (1909) Cotton Weaving & Designing, London.
“By John T. Taylor, late lecturer on Cotton Weaving and Designing in the Preston, Ashton-under-Lyne, Chorley, and Todmorden Technical Schools, and on Silk Weaving and Designing in the Macclesfield Technical School, author of designs for cotton fabrics, etc., in ‘The Textile Manufacturer’.”
Technical instruction manual introducing the processes and equipment of late nineteenth / early twentieth century English industrial cotton weaving. Very technical with lots of industrial machine drawings.
Tidball, Harriet (1964) Thomas Jackson, Weaver: 17th and 18th Century Records. Shuttle Craft Guild.
Tovey, John (1965) The Technique of Weaving. Readers Union, Devon.
Tovey, John (1969) Weaves and Pattern Drafting. London.
Ure, Andrew (1836): The Cotton Manufacture of Great Britain, Systematically Investigated. London.
Wadsworth, Alfred & De Lacey Mann, Julia (1931) The cotton trade and industrial lancashire, 1600-1780. Manchester University Press.
Von Walterstorff, Emilie (Editor) (1925) Swedish Textiles. Stockholm.
Warburg, James Paul (1921) Cotton and Cotton Manufacture: A Brief Analysis for the Layman. Boston
Watson, John (1869) The Theory and Practice of the Art of Weaving By Hand and By Power. With Calculations and Tables, for the Use of Those Connected with the Trade.
Watson, William (1921) Textile design and colour; elementary weaves and figured fabrics. Glasgow.
Watson, William (1913) Advanced Textile Design. Glasgow. 1913.
White, George (1846) A Treatise on Weaving By Hand and Power Looms. Glasgow.
“A Practical Treatise on Weaving By Hand and Power Looms: Intended as a Text Book for Manufacturers by Hand and Power Looms, and Power Loom Engineers, and Especially Designed to Forward the Extension of Machinery to all kinds of Plain Weaving”
Contains very detailed description of processes and equipment used in the contemporary manufacturing of cotton cloth. Deals with hand weaving and power weaving separately. Contains wood engraved illustrations in the text, and fine engraved plates of industrial machinery at the back.
Woodhouse, Thomas & Milne, Thomas (1914) Jute and Linen Weaving, Macmillan.
Worst, Edward F. (1918) Foot Power Loom Weaving. Milwaukee.
Edward F. Worst, Supervisor of Elementary Manual Training and Construction Work, Chicago, Ill. “Introduction: The suggestions offered in this manual are for those who believe that the more advanced weaving should be pursued as a most wholesome occupation and that it should again, in the near future, find a place not only in the school but also in the home. The work is so full of possibilities and the results obtained have such a wonderful effect on the character of the worker that these alone afford ample reasons why weaving should be carried on in both school and community. The descriptions given are for the amateur weaver who will find them more easily understood than those given in the more technical books on the subject. It is hoped that those interested will find help through the suggestions offered in this manual.”
Ziegler, Marx (1677) Weber Kunst und Bild Buch
Digital copy available from the Bayerische Staatsbibliothek (Bavarian State Library): https://reader.digitale-sammlungen.de/de/fs1/object/display/bsb11283522_00086.html
Author unknown (1698) The Linnen and Woollen Manufactury Discoursed.
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=BQouxQEACAAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0 – v=onepage&q&f=false