This is the second of several posts about a selection of woven linens in the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum.
The V & A’s textile collection has been phyically inaccessible to researchers for the last few years whilst preparations were made for a move from South Kensington to the new V & A East Storehouse in Hackney Wick. During that time I scoured the online collection in search of woven linen, and in June 2026 I made a long awaited appointment to examine a selection of these in the new Study Centre. Many thanks to V & A staff for assistance.
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Bird’s Eye
This post is about five pieces of linen each woven with a different Bird’s Eye pattern. The first of these (acquisition number 991:1899) is described as Flemish and dated 1400’s. The other four (acquisition numbers 1162C:1888, 1163:1888 1163A:1888 and 1163B:1888) are described as German and dated 1300s. As far as I know the museum holds no further information.
All have the golden-grey colour of undyed, unbleached flax. The Flemish piece additionally has three dark brown bands in a heavier yarn, perhaps wool.
991:1899
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991:1899 is described as Flemish; 1400s. It measures approximately 140 x 365mm.
1 repeat of the weave measures 12-13mm lengthways; diamonds are somewhat elongated. I believe the dark brown bands are made in the weft. The dark yarn is much coarser and may not be linen.
I believe this was woven on 12 leaves: my estimation of the draft and drawdown is shown in the images above.
V & A catalogue record URL: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O259570/woven-linen/
1162C:1888
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1162C:1888 is approximately 110 x 160mm.
The weaving is quite fine, with one repetition of the weave every 7mm in one direction and 5.5mm in the other. I have yet to determine the draft.
V & A catalogue record URL: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O259581/woven-linen/
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1162D:1888
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1162D:1888 is approximately 280mm long and includes a mixture of tabby weave and bird’s eye, the warp running along the piece.
V & A catalogue record URL: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O259580/woven-linen/
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1163:1888
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1163:1888 is approximately 150 x 165mm.
Piece has one selvedge on the right-hand edge in the first photograph, so the warp runs vetically.
Sett is about 21 ends per cm (52 per inch); 17 picks per cm (42 per inch),
A speculative threading draft and drawdown is shown in the images above. If I am right it was woven on 10 leaves. The weave is remarkably similar to the Flemish linen 991:1899 on 12 leaves.
V & A catalogue record URL: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O259579/woven-linen/
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1163A:1888
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1163A:1888 is approximately 150 x 165mm.
Warp / weft direction is unclear.
A speculative threading draft and drawdown is shown in the images above. If I am right it was woven on 12 leaves.
V & A catalogue record URL: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O259578/woven-linen/
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1163B:1888
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1163B:1888 is approximately 115mm x 180mm.
Weave is more compressed across the piece.
1 repetition of the weave = 15mm / 8mm.
A speculative draft is shown above, with 6 leaves and treadles.
Sett is about 16 per cm (40 per inch) x 27 per cm (68 per inch).
V & A catalogue record URL: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O259577/woven-linen/
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